Crimping versus soldering… It’s an age-old debate when it comes to making electrical connections, and honestly, it can get pretty heated! The military and NASA have super specific soldering requirements, ensuring low resistance connections. But then you have OEMs like Toyota and Lexus who swear by crimping, saying soldering can actually increase resistance. So, which is right? How do you know what to use when you’re knee-deep in wiring on your classic car or hot rod?
Let’s rewind a bit. Soldering has been around since the 1800s for connecting wires. As cars became mass-produced and electronics became more commonplace, crimp connections started to take over. They were just easier and faster for large-scale manufacturing.
Now, in modern cars, you’ll find both crimped and soldered connections. Circuit boards? Usually soldered. Mechanical connections like fuse blocks, headlights, and weather pack connectors? Mostly crimped.
So, What’s the Real Answer?
Honestly? It depends. And maybe more surprisingly, it doesn’t really matter as long as you’re doing things correctly. Both can achieve great results! The key is a solid mechanical connection first. Then, making sure it’s weatherproof. Modern connectors like weather packs and Deutsch connectors have rubber grommets to keep moisture out.
Think back to older cars and those headlight circuits with spade lugs crimped behind the lights. They’re constantly exposed to the elements, and you often see those wires corroded and not conducting power properly. Point is, a good connection (soldered or crimped) is tough to achieve when the copper wire itself is compromised.
Making the Magic Happen: Tips & Tricks
Let’s talk about how to make those solid connections. Those cheap connectors with the plastic sheathing? You can twist those right off and end up with a basic, non-insulated terminal. Then there are the crimp connectors with built-in heat shrink. Those are great in a pinch. Just remember that little hole at the front – moisture can still sneak in!
For truly weatherproof connections, check out those butt connectors with a solder ring in the middle. You stick the wires in, hit it with a heat gun, and boom – low-temp solder seals it all up. These are awesome to have in your toolbox, especially for hard-to-reach spots.
Personally, I usually use non-insulated connectors and cover them with heat shrink. I’ve got a couple of kits I like, even if one has the multi-colored heat shrink. Function over form, right? Plus, the colors make it easy to grab the right size at a glance. I also have a Dorman kit with black heat shrink that has adhesive inside. This is the real deal if you need a super weatherproof connection.
Crimping Like a Pro: Little Details Matter!
Making solid crimps is easy with basic tools. Ratcheting crimpers are nice, but not essential. One thing I want to emphasize is that on non-insulated terminals, there’s usually a seam on the side. On your crimper, you’ll see a little “nubby” guy. Make sure the seam is opposite that nub. This helps the crimper fill the wire into the void and make a solid connection, instead of just flexing the flaps down.
I actually pinched a wire replacing the transmission on my El Camino and it gave me fits until I realized my mistake. It’s common to have things like this happen, so I encourage you to pay attention to the details.
Soldering: Not Just for Pros!
What about soldering? It starts with that solid mechanical connection we talked about earlier. Some people say soldering makes the wire brittle. That can be true if you pour too much heat on it, melt a ton of solder in, and compromise the insulation. But you can avoid all of this by taking the right steps.
Drop a comment below, do you solder or crimp? Thanks for reading, now let’s get back to the garage!
Here’s a link to the Dorman Non-insulated Terminal Kit: https://amzn.to/3QNk5cF
Here’s a link to a set of basic crimpers like I use: https://amzn.to/41wBPhg
Links may be affiliate links as I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.
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